Sunday, February 22, 2009

Feb. 17 and 18

Feb. 17 and 18 Cruising the Chilean Fjords. (I thought they spelled fjords with an “I” in place of a “j” down here but the map says fjords.)
It is 6:45 pm and for the past half hour I have been up on deck and am now looking out our cabin window at the Skua Glacier, also known as the Amalia Glacier. It is a tidewater glacier located in Bernardo O’Higgins National Park. From the Daily Program--
“It originates in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and from 1945 to 1986
Its terminus retreated four miles making it, along with the receding of
O’Higgins Glacier, the most dramatic retreat of glaciers of this ice field during that period of time.
I don’t know who Amalia was but the Skuas were a wealthy South American family who commissioned a yacht and sailed it to this glacier. Sometime in the late 20th century. It is very frustrating to have bits and pieces of stories but because of the exorbitant e-mail costs, not be willing to google them.
It’s been a quiet day. Lectures in the morning, bridge morning and afternoon and e-mail and blog catching up.
If you’re checking a map (you’ll need a detailed one of Patagonia and the Chilean Fiords) here’s where we have sailed. After leaving Ushuaia, we sailed westward on the Beagle Channel, around the north of Isle O’Brien, through Canal Ballenero, around the south side of Pla. Brecknock, westerly through the Cl. Cockburn to the southern end of Aracena, north up the Canal Magdallena. It was then northwest through Estrecho de Magallanes then north into the Cl Smith and generally northward to Is Esperanza.
For you navigators, directions are approximate.) In the next post I'll try to put in a picture of the chart we have posted on the ship.
Somewhere along the way we altered course to get up pretty close and personal to two more glaciers. Days are longer and we have enough light at dinner time to rush up from the table, run to a window or outside and snap away. Alan was outside for so long, one of the ladies at our table became worried and offered to have one of the men check the men’s room for him. He returned shortly thereafter, safe, sound and dry.
Because the Prinsendam has “soft” propellers, it cannot be backed out of the tight spots the Captain navigates but must be turned 360° and headed back the way we came. Those on the bridge are constantly monitoring the glaciers to make sure there are no great chunks of ice sliding off into our path. The colors in the glaciers are spectacular, all range of blues, with brown of rocks and soils thrown into the mix.
Both sides of all the channels are mountainous, (up to 1,500 feet) faced with sheer rock cliffs and GREEN trees. Some of the tops are snow covered and we’ve seen a few small waterfalls. It is quite a comparision to the pure ice, snow and rock we saw in Antarctica.
We continued up this inland water route until it was no more and we had to go out into the Pacific Ocean for about 6 hours. We popped in again between Isla Rivero and I. Isquiliac .
I have a note on a scrap of paper that at 4:50 pm on Feb. 18 we were at
48° 47.15S, 075° 00.18W. That didn’t agree with what I figured on the chart but who I am to argue with the captain. Besides, they don’t let us up on the bridge. At that time we had traveled 112,702.3 miles from Ft. Lauderdale.

Our route then took us south east to the little coastal town of Puerto Chacobuca.
As the port lecturer and shore excursion people kept tell us….there ain’t nothing there. And they were correct.

Feb. 16, Punta Arenas, Chile

February 16 Punta Arenas, Chile
Rumors abounded all day about our late departure the night before. Two were most prevalent. One, two bodies (not everyone finishes a cruise horizontally) were taken from the ship and the paper work was not done properly. Two, two crew members were caught by the drug sniffing dog with drugs. (Alan later asked the ship’s doctor about the drug story and was told it was not true.)
I can with almost certainty attest to the fact that at least one poor soul left the ship. I was waiting for an elevator and overheard some of the ship’s officers by the gangway talking about getting “his” passport, the procedure, etc. The captain, who we have never seen at the gangway, was also there in his uniform as were the doctor and other officers. And finally, as we were going down the gangway, shore personal were bringing up one of those board things they use for accident victims. At least if you die on board, the captain sees you off.
The captain made good time over night and we arrived only an hour or so late.
We are in the Patagonian Region and our first port in Chile, Punta Arenas, which means Sand Point in Spanish. It is on the Strait of Magellan (he’s all you hear about down here). The climate is very harsh and the area was not easily settled or developed.
Today the main industry is sheep farming, meat processing and wool. Three hundred sheep were originally brought over from the Falklands.
Punta Arenas has a very mixed ethnic culture with a great many Croatians. The four indigenous tribes of the area, the Onas, Haush, Yahan and Alacaluf, were virtually wiped out by explorers and settles and their disease and cultural influences.
The region also had natural gas and the largest methadone plant in the world. I think the guide said methadone. 30% of the cars and taxis in the region run on natural gas.
Before the construction of the Panama Canal the harbor at Punta Arenas was once one of the most important in the world. Now it is mostly used by tourist cruise ships and scientific expeditions but it used to be the last stop for ships provisioning for the treacherous passage around Cape Horn.
Before leaving the Prinsendam we had to fill out a Chilean Declaration form swearing we weren’t bringing in animals, fresh fruits, meats, plants, lab specimens, goods other than personal luggage or over $1,000. We are supposed to carry the form with us at all times when ashore in Chile. Our carry-off bags and backpacks were given a cursory look-over by Chilean officials as we departed the ship.
Alan opted for a HAL tour of museums and the like while I went on a Cruise Specialist tour to the Otway Penguin Reserve.
The bus ride was over an hour…all but twenty minutes of it on bumpy dirt roads. What could be seen out the bus windows was pretty desolate and very, very rural. People who had been inland in Australia said it reminded them of Australia. The bus stopped so we could see emus (or something similar), cattle, sheep, the upland goose, and some native animal whose name I can’t remember. (remember, English isn’t the native language of our guides but they do very well.)
I enjoyed my time at the Otway Reserve but once back on the bus realized I was disappointed in the tour. After walking an hour and a half over a wooden walkway to viewing sites, we saw only a few penguins….probably less than 50. I had anticipated almost frolicking on the beach with thousands. It was explained that the climate changes (down here they don’t say global warming) are changing the breeding and nesting habits of the penguins and many had left the area.
However, our guide was very good, the people on the bus friendly and fun, and we made a quick pass through the town before returning to the Prinsendam.
Alan returned from the tour he took-----museums, the town square and a cemetery to rival the one in Buenos Aires. Well, almost.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Feb. 15



Previews of pictures for Feb, 16
Punta Arenas. Penguins on beach, sign you probably can't read.

February 15 Ushuaia/Tierra del Fuego.
No one agrees on the pronunciation. Most say You Shway ah.
Ushuaia claims to be the southernmost city in the world. Imagine my surprise when one of the first things I saw after getting off the ship was a bed of pansies. Of course it is summer down here. A balmy 50 degrees
Ushuaia once was the location for an Argentine prison for serious criminals. The site was chosen as escape was virtually impossible. A railroad was built by the forced labor and today is a tourist attraction known as Tren del Fin del Mundo, Train at the End of the World.
After our catamaran cruise in the Beagle Channel (more later) we had about an hour to wander the town. I’ve never been to Alaska but Ushuaia was what I think of when I think of Alaska. The town had a definite “frontier” feel to it. Other than the obvious cruise ship passengers (think blue fleece jackets) and backpackers (think long hair, beards and proper clothing), most of the people in the streets looks Indian, with darkish completions, and dark straight hair.
The streets went uphill from the docks. Many of them had a series of steps built parallel to the sidewalk so if you wanted you could walk steps instead of the incline of the sidewalk. As you can imagine, most of the souvenirs in the shops proclaimed that we were at the end of the world. Once again, all we bought was a post card.
The Beagle Channel.
Our Cruise Specialists Shore Excursion left at 11 am or so and after a short walk down the pier we boarded a motor catamaran for our 4.5 hour cruise. The boat was very comfortable and easily accommodated our group with plenty of extra seats. Alan opted for the upper deck and stayed outside most of the day. The rest of us alternated between the warmth of the cabin and the outer decks. The temperature was in the high 40s and sunny so it was quite comfortable even with the breeze/wind on the decks.
Our guide was very knowledgeable and kept us informed of the species of birds and seals we were seeing. The boat was able to get very close to shore --close enough for us to smell the seals. We were served coffee, tea and cookies (those on the HAL tours weren’t).
After a couple of hours we arrived off a house, shed and dock on what looked like a small island. Out came a small boat powered by an outboard engine. It brought the postmistress who once safely onboard proceeded to give us all a free stamped post card, and a “ passport’. We all wrote our cards (we were able to buy extras from the catamaran as well as stamps from the postmistress), she cancelled them, and collected them in a sack for mailing from the local post office. (HAL tours didn’t get that service either.) I wonder how long it will take for postcards to get to Massachusetts from the end of the world.
We saw birds!!!!! And seals!!!!! And more birds! And more seals! And a lighthouse. And a tiny rusted bit of a shipwreck.
The next day our neighbors across the hall laughing told us that on their HAL tour they approached a rocky island and spotted hundreds of penguins. After taking about 200 pictures (their estimate), some of the penguins flew away. Well……penguins don’t fly. What they were seeing were blue eyed cormorants. They are similar to our northern hemisphere cormorants but are black and white like penguins. Hopefully, I’ll be able to post pictures of the cormorants and seals.
After our boat trip we wandered the little town for the hour we had left and returned to the Prinsendam for the 5 pm departure.
At 5:15 the cruise director came over the PA system and announced that we were almost ready to leave but a couple of people had not yet returned….one of them being the captain. It seems there was a little paper work to clear up.
At 6:00 another announcement --virtually the same. And at 6:30 with the added comment that it was a Sunday and almost nothing official gets done on a Sunday in Ushuaia. Finally about 8 pm we left the dock.
And thus ended day 45.

Feb. 14







pictures above left to right....seals in Beagle Channel, cormorants in Beagle Channel, just a little of what we saw in Antarctica....
I just noticed that there is no Feb. 13. I'll have to check it out .....after all it was Friday the 13th
Feb. 14, Valentine’s day At Sea
Day 44
Today is a bit rough. I was able to stay in the Queen’s Lounge for only a small part of the forum by the Captain, the Ice Pilot and our Expedition Leader as they told about the construction of the Prinsendam (not built for ice), maneuvering around the icebergs, etc.
The Expedition Leader, John Splettstoesser has been wonderful on the bridge as we cruised in and out of icebergs and glaciers. He gives names to places and facts on the wildlife. In addition, he has given several talks on life in Antarctica.
Yesterday we saw one or two small cruise ships that take less than 100 people and are small enough to get in closer to the shoreline. On some of the smaller ships, passengers are allowed ashore ----under strict conditions of course.
Because of the sea conditions, the Captain’s Valentine’s Day Ball was postponed. It wasn’t rough enough for people to take to their beds, but dancing would have been a little rocky.
It’s hard to believe that I can’t write much about the last three days as we have been awe struck by the scenery….wildife….and overall experience of Antarctica. Even the air has a sharpness and clarity to it that we don’t often see.
What we have seen in the past few days has been beyond belief. Did I mention that the ship showed both the March of the Penguins and Happy Feet this week. We could really relate to them. We could actually recognize the various species of penguins and birds in Happy Feet.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

three at a time seems to work







ice berg rusted tanks on So. Georgia Abandoned whaler on S. Geo.
Can you see tiny spots on the iceberg? If I used the correct picture they are penguins.

Hopefully pictures







If pictures post give thanks to the wonderful fellow who is in charge of the internet on the ship.
left to right. molting seal. molting penguin, little fur seal

Feb 11 At Sea

February 11 At Sea
Our position at 2:26 pm whatever time zone we are in.
62° 27.15S 56° 20.40W
Seas 4 - 7.5 feet
Air temp 35.6° F Relative humidity 100%
Wind 5 knots from the east across the deck
Day 41 of our journey. 10,731 miles traveled since Ft. Lauderdale
871 Miles traveled from South Georgia
1,222 Miles to go to our next port Ushuaia ( no one agrees on the pronunciation but most say You shy ah) It’s the southernmost city in the world. Anyone need a stamp?
Next sunset 8:25 pm
Next sunrise 4:58 am
Ship’s heading 220.1
Ship’s speed 13.3 knots
Our daily program is headed OUR ANTARCTIC EXPERIENCE BEGINS. What it doesn’t mention is that we are surrounded by thick fog with little chance of seeing anything until it lifts.
I’ll just have to fill the time with telling you about Antarctica, the southernmost continent. It is 5.4 million square miles, making it the fifth largest continent. 98% of Antarctica is covered with ice and it is the coldest, driest, windiest continent on Earth. It has the highest average elevation of all the continents and the interior because of it’s lack of precipitation is the largest desert on earth. There are no permanent residents. However, more than 4,000 scientist from all our the world are currently conducting research experiments on Antarctica.
No one owns Antarctica although many nations have claimed it. The 1959 Ataractic Treaty prohibiting military activity and mineral mining has been signed by 45 countries.
I just realized that we will be in Ushuaia on a Sunday. I wonder if the post office is open. Our shore excursion takes us there.
It is now 5:45 and we’ve had much going on since I started writing earlier this afternoon.
I was sitting in the cabin writing this blog when an announcement came over the pa system. "Iceberg on the port side."
I hadn't realized the heavy fog had lifted but it had so I quickly put on a jacket, socks, sneakers, hat, and gloves, grabbed the camera and rain up the stairs to deck 7. As I came panting around the corner from the stern.....there it was
A very large flat topped iceberg right beside the ship. Everyone was taking pictures, some people had even run outside without putting on jackets. IT WAS COLD. AND WINDY. WITH SNOW FLURRIES. I took plenty of pictures and went back to the cabin to get rid of the outside clothes and get a cup of tea to warm up the icy hands.
Fortunately, I kept the camera with me because a second announcement came through about our next iceberg. The fellow making the announcements said the captain would turn the ship so both sides would have a view. (I guess some of the passengers can’t or don’t want to walk to the other side of the ship.)
We were told this the second iceberg had a brown area on it….a sign of penguins.
Sure enough, as it came closer we could see many, many little spots develop into many, many big penguins.
Now, as I write this, icebergs of all size are floating by the cabin window. No announcements. Just one that the officers on the bridge were busy watching for growlers, the pieces of ice that break off the larger iceberg. I suspect that by dinner tonight, no one will even look out the windows, let alone take pictures.
The captain will take the ship as far into the waters of the Antarctic Peninsular as he feels is safe, then turn around and head toward Yankee Harbor and Half Moon Island.
Later: I was wrong. At dinner we all spent the evening swiveling ours head to look out all the windows at the icebergs silently floating past
The evening entertainment was the movie Happy Feet. It meant so much more now we have seen the glaciers and icebergs and could identify the penguin types, the seal and birds.