Feb. 5, 6, 7.

February 5, Stanley, Falkland Islands
We were told by many people that there was nothing to see on the Falkland Islands. In fact, the joke on the ship told in an incredulous tone was “England gave away Hong Kong, and fought over the Falklands?”
If it wasn’t for the war between Great Britain and Argentina in 1982, most of us probably would have no idea where the Falklands are. During the 77 day war the island was heavily mined by the Argentine forces, and mines still remain, along with warning signs.
The Falkland Islands are made up of 33 islands, two of them large. There are about 3 thousand people living on the islands, 1800 of them live in Port Stanley. The archipelago is approximately 500 nautical miles northeast of Cape Horn and about 350 miles off the coast of Argentina. All land beyond Port Stanley is referred to as “the camp” and the majority of the people in the camp are sheep farmers. Strangely, Stanley observes daylight savings time in the winter but the camp does not.
We arrived later than scheduled but earlier than we would have had not the captain changed course yesterday and pushed the Prinsendam for all it was worth. Sailing in we were reminded of Cape Cod….white sandy beaches with scrub vegetation on dunes. The comparison ended there as the Falklands have large outcroppings of rock.
The Amsterdam was anchored in the bay when we arrived having just sailed up from Antarctica. We were ashore by 11 and began to walk Port Stanley. I don’t know why people said there is nothing here. It is a charming town, with narrow streets, English looking houses with flower gardens in the front yard and vigorously growing vegetable gardens in the back, plenty of pubs, gift shops and a decent size market. There are no native trees…..but several very large imported ones around the cathedral. The Anglican Christ Church Cathedral is the southernmost cathedral in the world and was quite impressive being built of brick and wood. Outside the church was an arch made of whale’s jaw bones.
We had a slight mishap shortly after beginning our stroll down the main street. Alan didn’t see the change in level between the sidewalk and the street, took a step and went flat on his face, breaking his fall with his nose. I was walking ahead of him, heard a thud but didn’t look back until people started gasping. Turned around and there was Alan sprawled face down in the street. Motionless. He must have had the wind knocked out but as people tried to help him, he managed to get to his feet. Luckily there was a bench outside the shop so he sat down. Within seconds a woman had handed me a packet of Neosporen, a man an alcohol wipe and another woman a Band-Aid. Or a plaster as they call it in this English town. A tissue took care of the blood and we continued on.
(several hours later: the nose is swollen, scratched, and raw looking with newly formed scabs and the left knee a little scratched and a lot swollen. It could have been a lot worse. Alan is soldiering on with his favorite pain killer.
Many of the roofs are painted bright orange, red or green making a very colorful approach from the sea.
We took a local tour to Gypsy Cove and after a 20 or so minute ride over the bumpiest roads you can imagine there they were -----the penguins. Three people kayaking in the waters below us were joined by three dolphins who stayed with the kayaks for quite a while. We saw the penguins only from a bluff (and behind ropes and land mine warning signs) but people who took other tours saw them up close and personal….within a few feet. Hopefully, we’ll get that opportunity later.
The ranger at Gypsy Cove told us the penguins we saw were youngsters waiting for the parents to come back and feed them. According to him, the penguins are getting their “oily feathers” early this year. Once they have all this type of feather they will take to the water.
There are several penguin species. We saw the Gentoo and Magellanic. We also saw Geese, (not Canadian), ducks and the albatross.
February 6 and 7 At sea
It’s getting colder. People are now dressed in sweaters, socks and even hats.
Only a few hardy souls are out on deck…and the wind is blowing!
I’m off to a mandatory lecture on South Georgia. In Brazil we were inundated with warnings about pickpockets…..now it about not touching the wildlife, staying on the paths and not taking anything ashore. Or anything off the island.
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This is the last year that ships with more than 500 passengers will be allowed to go to land passengers on South Georgia Island in Cumberland Bay. The new regulation is in effect but the Prinsendam is being allowed to send passengers ashore because the cruise was booked before the new regulations.
Here are our instructions.
No wheelchairs and walkers are permitted ashore. You will be assigned a departure time for your tour. Changes will not be allowed. At any time the local authorities can change the content or duration of our call on South Georgia without warning. Your group will have at least two Prinsendam crew members as leader -- they are not guides and are with each group as a requirement of our visit to ensure everyone stays together and follows designated paths.
There are no restrooms ashore.
There are no medical facilities.
Smoking is strictly forbidden on the island.
It is strictly forbidden to take food ashore.
Groups must stay at least 5 yards clear of all wildlife.
Guests are not allowed to stray from the group and group leader.
Guests are not allowed to stray from the paths/tracks.
Guests are not allowed to go ashore unless on an organized complimentary tour.
Rocks, plants and artifacts should not be touched.
Please ensure that your footwear is scrubbed in the boot washing station, removing all soil and organic material before going ashore.
Inspect all of your clothing for soil, seeds, and insects, especially cuffs, Velcro pockets, seams and hoods. This includes walking sticks, ski poles and camera tripods.
Empty, vacuum and inspect inside all bags that you take ashore to ensure the absence of soil, seeds and insects.
In the remote chance the weather turns severe
Carry three days worth of medication..
It can be extremely cold, windy and possibly wet. Wear warm waterproof clothing and good footwear.
At any time due to a sudden change of weather, the tenders may stop operating, so in that even and the remote possibility of staying overnight, the ship and local personnel have organized an emergency contingency plan. However it will be a Spartan experience --lodging and food wise.
Now doesn’t that sound like a fun trip!!!!
Actually, it is rare experience to be allowed onto the island. Here’s a brief description and history.
It is long and narrow and everywhere the snow covered mountains rise straight from the water, reaching near the center of the island, to a height of over 9,000 feet.
1676 South Georgia sighted by a British merchant
1756 Second sighting by the Spanish
1775 Captain Cook lands in Possession bay and claims So. Georgia for England
1786 Sealing industry begins
Plenty of history but we’ll skip to
1904 C.A Larsen of Norway establishes the whaling station at Grytviken and the whaling era begins.
1916 Sir Ernest Shackle ton and five companions reach So. Georgia from Elephant Island. (great book with plenty of pictures--The Endurance, Shackle ton’s Legendary Antarctic Expedition by Caroline Alexander.)
1922 Shackleton ides on board Quest at Grytviken. His body starts the journey home but his widow notifies the ship that he wishes to be buried at Grytviken so he is taken back and buried there.
1965 Closure of the last shore based whaling station in South Georgia.
1982 Argentine military forces occupy South Georgia for 22 days. Some land mines are still on the island.
2009 Alan and Sandra visit South Georgia (we hope…..last report---it’s snowing there.
We have just received a notice that there may not be satellite service in South Georgia or Antarctica so if you don’t hear from us we’re out consorting with the penguins.