Salaverry is the third most populous city in Peru and the capital of the La Libertad Region. It is also the port of call for people who wish to visit Trujillo in northwestern Peru.
"houses" on the side of the road going from the dock to Salaverry.
Trivia note: Peru is the world’s leading asparagus exporter and much of it goes through Trujillo.
A very comfortable double decker bus provided a shuttle to Trujillo Major Square in the center of Salaverry. It was a lovely square, surrounded by old mansions, the cathedral, and several business. The large statute in the center was under renovation and “roped” off with tall green screening. Too bad, the pictures would have been nice.
We entered the church where Mass was being held. I couldn’t recognize the song they were singing until someone said it was I’d rather be a hammer than a nail. The church was very crowded, something we don’t often see. But, this was a Sunday and it’s a very Roman Catholic country.
Alan hired a cab and went off to see the ruins at Chen Chen, as well as the temple of the sun and temple of the moon. After wandering around for about a half hour I hooked up with four ladies from the ship who were being escorted to the local market by an armed guard. It seems they showed him their map, pointed to the market, and he decided to take them there himself.
The market was the typical local market with plenty of fish, meats and vegetables. There were plenty of stalls with kid’s clothes, as well as adult clothing, and many with underwear. After searching unsuccessfully in several ports for a camisole to wear under an eyelet top, I found a man outside the market on the street selling men’s undershirts/
The ladies said, offer him a dollar, I did. He gave me an undershirt. It worked fine and I finally wore my new top bought weeks ago in some city in Brazil.
When he saw my undershirt purchase, Alan wanted to know why I didn’t buy a dozen.
We tried to have lunch at a nice looking hotel but the dining room was closed so it was back on the bus and back to the dock.
Several stalls/vendors had set up shop on the dock so I picked up a couple of necklaces made of local products.
Alan made the next to last shuttle after a successful trip to the archeological sites of the area.
Before we sailed we were treated to another “afternoon of local cultural entertainment.”
Most of the dances of this part of the world involve a great deal of waving of white handkerchiefs.
March 2, At Sea in the Pacific.
The newest group of speakers continues to give talks on the Panama Canal, Ecuador, and Spanish lessons continue.
One of the Explorations speakers is a former Rockport, MA neighbor of our friends Penny and Larry Olson. Small world,
Tonight was the final “dress ball” of the voyage, the Black and Gold Ball. Streamers, balloons, gold sequin tuxedos on the waiters, guests in gold and black all made it a festive occasion. There will be a couple more formal nights, but no more balls.
March 3, Manta, Ecuador.
I think Manta was on the itinerary so people could go to Quito and stand on the equator but so few signed up for the pricey excursion that it was cancelled. We stood on the equator a few weeks ago in Macapa.
Manta is an interesting city in its own right. It has a population of over 250,000 and has the largest seaport in Ecuador.
Contrary to the name, Panama Hats are not from Panama but originated in Manta. There are panama hats for sale everywhere! At every price from $5 to thousands. Yes, thousands. Dollars, not pesos. The US dollar is the official currency of Ecuador.
It is believed that when Teddy Roosevelt went to Panama he saw the hats (which had come over from Ecuador) liked them, bought a few for friends and took them home saying, look what I bought you in Panama. Hence the name.
Hat making is a cottage industry although there are factories which mass produce them. Reeds or grasses are boiled in water to soften. The softened strands are then pulled apart into long strands which are then woven into the hats. A very good, very expensive panama hat should last for years and may be tightly rolled up and kept in a wooden coffin shaped box.
Another interesting product of Manta is buttons. Supposedly, most of the world’s buttons are made in Manta. Two of the three button factories have closed but one is still going strong.
The buttons are made from the tagua nut which is also called vegetable ivory. The "nuts" are really seeds and are about the size of a chicken's egg. The nuts grow very hard and can then be carved into small statutes, little cups, chess pieces, key rings and buttons.
To make buttons the nuts are sliced into the shape and size needed and then colored with vegetable dyes.
Some of the carvings were very intricate, and of course some quite simple.
After exploring the artisan’s market place in downtown Manta, we hired a cab and rode out to the nearby city of Monti Cristo, supposedly to visit a Panama hat factory.
It is pretty much the same in whatever country we visit. Someone who speaks pretty good English hustles (and hassles) customers and negotiates the price. Then a second person (usually “my brother”) appears and leads you to the cab around the corner . The air conditioned cab promised almost always turns out to be air conditioned by opening the windows.
Manta was no exception but “my brother” the driver was personable and friendly so off we went. The “factory” turned out to be a small shop with a woman sitting on the steps weaving a Panama hat. Needless to say, Alan was not happy. Not at all happy. So off we went to the top of a mountain to see the view of Monti Cristo, more buttons and tagua nut carvings, and the local church
On the way back to the dock we passed the symbol of Manta, a 50 foot model tuna. Tuna fishing is now the main economic activity in Manta, with large commercial fishing boats complete with helicopters for spotting lining the harbor. Smaller, older, traditional fishing boats also fill the harbor. We knew when we passed the tuna processing plant, a rather odorous place.
We had the cab drop us at the supermarket where I bought a can of tuna fish to see if there is any difference. Premium white in water --$1.07. A hot 15 minute walk ---finally a walk downhill) took us back to the dock and the shuttle out to the ship.
While waiting for the shuttle we observed 50 or so Volkswagons of various models being driven off the dock parking lot ---off to the dealer we guessed. Tied up along the Prinsendam was a strange looking ship….very high with no ports, cranes or markings…that someone said was an automobile cargo ship. Wish I’d gotten a picture for confirmation. (We're in the Panama canal as I'm posting this and I got a picture of a similar ship. Will post it later.)
After lunch, I decided I wanted to go back to the market place and buy silly, useless gifts for the grandchildren. Something else to pack. They will have to wait for Camp Grandma 2009 for them.
So many of the places we’ve visited have been very poor. We’ve been told not to give to the beggars. It’s hard not to but Alan gave money to a kid in a wheelchair and didn’t even get a smile. We gave chocolates to a couple of kids, and watched them run off without an acknowledgement, eat the candy and throw the wrappers on the ground. None of the passengers expect anything from these kids but all wonder if we’re doing them any favors. I know they are poor and some not healthy, and I may be cynical but I think they practice the sad face for the tour bus arrivals.
March 4, At Sea We crossed the equator again last night.
Yesterday afternoon I gave the picture of the “garbage men” to the dining room hostess to give to them. Tonight at dinner, she brought one of them into the dining room as he wanted to thank me. I don’t know how many rules were broken as you never see the below deck help on the passenger decks but I think she went to extra mile to make the fellow happy. The crew on the ship are wonderful, from the deck officers to the men painting the sides in port. They are all away from their homes and families for months but are always cheerful and helpful.
Alan and I spent a portion of the day trying to earn Dam Dollars. Two or three times a day on sea days, “sports” activities are held and each participant receives a monopoly money Dam dollar or two. We’ve never bothered with Dam Dollars but we each earned five for the equator swim and that got me started. I decided I wanted a cap…..valued at $30 Dam Dollars. We did the Antarctica swim….five more each. Then a couple of golf putting games. Believe it or not I won six in golf putting. We passed the 30 goal so I decided to go for a 45 dollar beach towel. Passed that. Decided to go for 60 for the sweatshirt. Yesterday we earned enough for the sweatshirt so we’re calling it quits.
Halfway through the cruise some people had over 200 Dam Dollars…..let’s get a life folks. But it’s fun and you met people so we can’t knock it.
Tomorrow Fuerte Amador, Panama. We’ll be there from 7 am until 2:30 am the next day(Friday). Then we pull up the anchor and head for the entrance to the canal.
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